Brass Kitchen brings new concepts and international flavor to Steamboat’s restaurant scene

Paul Underwood and his partner Ryan Fowler are bringing a unique dining experience to downtown Steamboat Springs with Brass Kitchen and Bar.

“We take our inspiration and foundation from the old world,” Underwood said. “The food will be focused on protein and cooked slowly at low temperatures.”

Underwood said the menu at his latest venture incorporates flavors from around the world, many of which are made using time-honoured techniques from France, Italy and Spain. However, the menu also has an American melting pot twist, with flavors inspired by cuisines from around the world.

“We’re introducing Latin and Asian flavors,” Underwood said. “Customers will see things like shishito peppers, and Chef Ryan Fowler is currently developing a salsa that will need to ferment for two weeks, which will be a slightly spicy addition to pork cheek dishes.”

Brass Kitchen and Bar, located at 700 Yampa St., will take over the space formerly occupied by Otto Pint Gastroteca in Steamboat Springs, which closed this fall. Underwood said his restaurant will serve comforting, internationally inspired cuisine reimagined with healthy, earth-conscious ingredients and vegetarian and vegan options.

“The cooking process is definitely a big part of it,” Underwood said. “For the layman, I would describe it as a smokeless barbecue.”

The menu offers entrees such as ratatouille for $19; Optionally, add burrata to the grilled barramundi with shiitake miso soup, root vegetable hash, jasmine rice and chilli threads for $4.

Other entrees include free-range chicken breast, cassoulet, pork cheeks in Sriracha, and roasted beef in Bordeaux. Starter menus include braised shishito peppers, poutine with hand-cut fries, Korean braised pork ribs, French dip sliders, and curry chickpea and vegetable soup. There’s also a wide selection of salads and desserts, including mixed berry cobbler and chocolate pot de crème.

“We don’t want to go down the path of being a French fine dining restaurant,” Fowler said. “We’re in the middle, affordable, not a fine dining restaurant. We offer classic cuisine.”

Brass Kitchen and Bar’s staff will include general manager Bev Murray, and the kitchen will be led by Fowler.

Fowler grew up on the Front Range, attended culinary school at Colorado Mountain College, served a three-year apprenticeship at Keystone Resort and worked in several restaurants before moving to Breckenridge. After completing his culinary education, he returned to school and earned his bachelor’s degree while continuing to work in Breckenridge. He then spent his after-school hours traveling around South America, eventually returning to the mountains to work at Aurum, Café He Diva, Truffle His Pig, and as the personal chef at Steamboat He Springs.

Underwood said Brass Kitchen’s approach is to offer high-quality food at a more affordable price. To increase food value and reduce labor costs, Brass offers a counter-service concept where staff provide information on menu items and make suggestions.

“People can come in, look at the menu and the wine list, decide what they want and go to the counter,” Underwood said. “We have knowledgeable staff who can accommodate allergies and discuss different ingredients and flavors, as well as pairing food with wine and cocktails.”

After ordering, customers find a table in the spacious dining room, where waiters provide table service. The restaurant has a full bar serving cocktails, beer and wine. Underwood said the menu changes seasonally.

Brass Kitchen and Bar is open seven days a week from 3:30pm to 9pm, with happy hour from 3:30pm to 5pm, where customers receive 25% off their total bill. Underwood said the restaurant is open every day except Thanksgiving and plans to be open on Christmas Day. The restaurant does not accept reservations and customers are accepted on a first-come, first-served basis. If there are no seats available, you will have to wait in line.

“It’s important that people understand what we’re trying to accomplish and how we’re going to get there,” said Underwood, who previously ran Cafe Diva. “There will be elements that mirror what we did at Diva, but for me this is a labor of love. Reimagining the restaurant experience in Steamboat, bringing it to people at an affordable price, and connecting with locals. We wanted to provide a layout that was friendly to both tourists and tourists.”